The Elmwood - Mahogany (602M last) Factory Second
Boot and Leather
Our first ever Chelsea boot - the Elmwood. Using a custom Parkhurst full grain upper leather with the help of our partner tannery in Spain, this article is a combination chrome and vegetable tanned bovine leather creating a reddish-brown colorway. It is hot stuffed with natural oils and waxes to help with water resistance and makes for easy cleaning/conditioning.
Crafted using a tighter fiber goretex weave than usual, this pattern helps to ensure your ankle stays locked in place without letting the goretex fabric stretch out too fast.
1 - Production samples used for middle range size grading. Boot has been tried on twice but not worn around.
Last - 602M
Aimed at balance with a focus on more natural support, this last is the modified (M) version of our 602 last. The modifications include a small addition of width in the pinky toe area along with a slight addition of depth in the vamp and toebox.
The Chelsea's sizing runs a bit large to help accommodate slightly wider foot types, and given traditional Chelsea patterns run a bit narrow. Sizing for many has ran a full size down from your typical sneaker size, or a half size down from Brannock, if you're a D/single E width. For those with low volume feet and/or low insteps, we suggest going a full size down from your Brannock size. If you have an EE width foot we suggest going with your Brannock size in this style. Depending on other brands you may have fit into taking a labeled wide width, it is possible, and we have seen so far, our customers fit comfortably into our boots at the same size without the over-addition of length. Naturally this may vary from person to person so we encourage chatting about sizing prior to selecting a size for purchase.
Our build focuses on enhanced breath-ability and shock absorption in a more natural way by using more vegetable tanned leather components. These components include the below:
- Vegetable tanned bends leather insole, midsole, welt, heel counters, heel stack
- Steel shank + cork filler
- 360 degree Goodyear welt construction
- Itshide Commando lugged sole + heel toplift
Click here to find out how this leather should be treated.
Have a question before, during or after your purchase? Reach out to us at firstname.lastname@example.org and we would be happy to assist you.
Construction – Goodyear welted with natural cork and steel shank
Upper – Full grain Mahogany leather
Lining Leather – Vegetable tanned calfskin
Insole – Vegetable tanned bends leather
Hardware – None
Laces – None
Welt – Vegetable tanned leather
Midsole – Vegetable tanned leather
Elastic - Goretex – tight weave
Sole/Heel – Commando
Heel Stack – Vegetable tanned bends leather
This last which has a slightly lower volume to provide a more comfortably snug fit and to help prevent heel slip while maintaining a rounder forefoot. Its features include a more laterally voluminous, yet low profile toebox along with a tapered arch and a snug heel. The instep on this last is more contoured to the natural shape of your instep angle. The taper in the arch and heel can provide a more natural, mild arch support.
Size comparison examples from current customers going off of a D/standard width:
Brannock - Half size down. If you're a 10D Brannock or slightly over a D width, go with size 9.5 in the 602 last. If you measure a single E width, more towards a single E width or prefer a slight bit of extra room without a drastic length increase, we suggest going with your Brannock size. In this example, a size 10.
Parkhurst No. 18 - True to size.
Alden Barrie and Trubalance - True to size if D width. Some customers go a half size up from this last into the 602 last if they are looking for a bit more space or have a wider forefoot.
Red Wing No. 8 - True to size if D width.
Thursday Boot - True to size if D width.
Allen Edmond's - True to size if D width.
Nike - Half size down if D width.
Adidas - Half size down if D width.
New Balance - Half size down if D width.
This last is used for Chelsea and moc toe boots in order to support the traditionally narrower pattern for them. The difference between the two is the 602M last has a touch more depth in the toebox and width in the pinky toe area.
Sizing for this and the 602 last has been consistent between D and single E width as measured on Brannock. So if you take a size 9 in the 602 last and are a D/E width, we would suggest a size 9 in the 602M last. If you take a size 9 in the 602 last and are a true D or D/C width, we suggest going down a half size into the 602M last, so in this case, a size 8.5 would be recommended. General size translations are below:
Brannock - Half size down
Wide Width's - Take your normal wide width numerical size for E and EE. EEE will not fit.
Alden Trubalance - True to size
Alden Barrie - True to size
Red Wing - True to size
Nike - Full size down
New Balance - Full size down
Adidas - Full size down
We have found that taking your typical women’s size in boots to be a quite true to size for our 602 last. For some, this may translate into a half size down from your typical sneaker size. For others with narrow or low volume feet, this may translate into a full size down from sneaker size. Some brand sizing translation examples can be found below:
Adidas – Half size down
Nike – Half size down
Converse – True to size, half size up if wide or high-volume foot
Red Wing – True to size
Frye – True to size
Tory Burch – True to size
Timberland – True to size
*If after reading these differences between these lasts you feel you might be in between sizes, feel free to reach out via email and we would be happy to help you identify the best size for you. Naturally we understand there are those who may fall between the cracks of sizing guidance as every foot type is different.
We believe in making our footwear with manufacturers who create the best quality boots and components we can find, while keeping in mind production sustainability and environmental impact. Globalizing our supply chain has allowed us to use better quality components such as steel shanks and different vegetable tanned leathers while incorporating products made in the US as well. We are grateful to work with some of the best factories and components manufacturers in the industry to help make our boots and produce needed components to our specifications. Working with both suppliers and manufacturers in the USA, and now Spain, has helped us produce the best boot we have made so far.